"It Never Shuts!": Uncovering Hackney's Adored Retro Cafe
Surrounded by walls immersed in football paraphernalia, an all-inclusive community blossoms in the heart of Hackney Wick, uniting Londoners from all walks of life in an oasis known as Mapps Café.
Open seven days a week, proud owner for the past thirty-five years, and in-house entertainer, H is motivated by the "generosity" of his customers to keep his successful company thriving. Approaching the table and greeting me with a platter of chips and a falafel wrap, while balancing a pen on the crease of his right ear, H declared, "Welcome to Mapps Cafe.” This I interpreted as ‘Welcome to a cafe where you will be dined in line with your dietary requirements even if you do not directly express your hunger.'
Being vegan, I expected my interest in the cafe to be limited as it served more of a purpose for local construction workers and labourers; yet my preconceptions were swiftly corrected as the customers of the cafe warmly welcomed me as I cautiously walked in and timidly asked, “Oat milk?” to only be replied to with, “Of course, yes, come in!”
“It’s just good company, very good company.”
"I can introduce you to loads of people." Discussing the latest furniture deals, Mapps Cafe embodies the essence of organically networking with locals who specialise in their own distinct and useful crafts. Among the indiscernible hubbub, phrases like "Anybody ordered the soup?" reminded me of family gatherings, where customers would pause while eating and shout the name of the person who had most likely ordered the soup. "Everyone knows everyone; it's like a big family," one customer remarked, suggesting that a bond rooted in this comfort could only be formed by a strong connection to the cafe and the people in it.
What feels like entering an alternate realm with an anchored feel of the past, customers are quick to assimilate within the joyful atmosphere at the core of the cafe. With friends and family visiting Mapps for over 30 years, H believes he would never close his business, claiming he is "interested in people" rather than money, and that "whoever comes here (Mapps Cafe) once, comes back 100 percent." In placing importance to the community, locals are always the first to sponsor donations to help others in need and when providing me unsolicited career advice, H said, "Follow your heart; it's what makes you a great person."
"It took me nearly two hours to get here"
Loyal customer Orhan, also known as Mick, described the cafe's retro feel as embodying the 'greasy spoon' style, with people lured in by the "good vibes" and "friendships" made. H goes on: "You have to joke with them; you tell them to piss off." The strategy of light-hearted insults appears to have worked in H's favour, with "generosity" and good-natured jibes becoming indefinable attributes that distinguish Mapps from other cafes. "Is there any way to arrest her, she's doing my head in," H joked, pointing at me.
Mapps Cafe distinguishes itself by its variety of product offerings while eschewing the ‘hipster tax.’ "I'm the dodgiest guy you'll ever meet; I'll sell anything." From beans on toast to Calvin Klein underwear, the retro cafe offers all the necessities at no additional expense. H returned from the back of the kitchen with a black plastic container, showcasing the additional items he sells: "There's to****, c****s, V****a, and everything," he said as he walked away, suppressing laughter.
“I always believe in one thing: the more you give, the more you get. It's something that we’ve established as a whole; over the years, I’ve learnt that generosity will bring you blessings. If somebody comes in with no money, I've already given them the food and say it's on me; don’t worry about it.” The altruistic ethos that inspires others demonstrates the invisibility of class barriers. Orhan adds, “You gain someone as well; he’ll be in here soon when he makes money.”
~H
Ending the interview on wise words, H remarked “At the end of the day, we all work like a dog, we all like rugby, football, athletics and different kinds of sports...it's all part of nature.” Implying gratitude for the simpler things in life.
What appears to be a simple workman's café houses some of the best musicians, artists, yogis, dancers, teachers, and more, all of whom share the belief; "One thing I don't believe in is places that give you a little bit of chips, a little bit of green, and you still feel hungry."
